Travel Japan - Tokyo

As you travel Japan, you will find that Tokyo is a diverse city with some interesting areas to visit along the looped JR Yamanote Railway Line.  First, get a map of Tokyo.  This writer normally stays in the Shinagawa area just across the street from the Shinagawa station, so my start is from that spot.  From Shinagawa station, which is a Shinkansen stop, a left loop stop is Shibuya, a very trendy area for the young and fashion-conscious, with large department stores such as Tokyu, Seibu, Marui, and Parco, including Shibuya 109 with 10 floors established there.  Be sure to take a photo at the Hachiko statue in tribute to a loyal Akita dog that waited for his master daily at the spot, even after his master passed away. 
Nearby is Aoyama and Omotesando, a nice tree-lined street where the more affluent shop, and is full of designer brands and excellent restaurants.  Notable here is the Oriental Bazaar, where you can pick up your souvenirs, including Japan clothing like kimono, yukata, pearls, etc. Aoyama is accessible by Tokyo subway.
Next is Harajuku, where the young Japan school girls gather to play and display their Tokyo street fashion along the Takeshita-dori.  There is a large Daiso100 Yen shop there where you can find very inexpensive gifts to bring home, most of which are priced at a mere 100 Yen. 
Next stop along the loop is Shinjuku a Shinkansen station, where there are many tall buildings, and where many of the government offices are located.  Large department stores located here include Takashimaya, Mitsukoshi, Isetan,  Marui, Keio, and Odakyu.   Shinjuku is known for its excitingTokyo nightlife, with many bars, clubs, and restaurants.
In the middle of the loop is Akasaka, with some large hotels and is also known for its nightlife.
Roppongi is home to a very large shopping and residential complex called Roppongi Hills and Roppongi Hills Mori Tower with its great Tokyo city view, and its many shops and restaurants.  It is also home to TV Asahi.
Further along the loop is Ikebukuro, with its large department stores Seibu, Tobu,  Marui, Parco, and Don Quijote, and also know for its Otome Road, where female otaku(fans) shop.
At the upper right side of the loop is Ueno station, where just outside of the station exit is Ueno Park.  Going left from there down the street and under the train tracks is Ameyokocho, where there is a large shopping area where you can buy discount items from food to clothing, including kimono. 
Further east of Ueno is Asakusa, most famous for the Sensoji Temple and the much photographed Kaminari Mon (gate) with its large red lanterns.  You will find a long line of souvenir shops along the walk to the temple. 
Next along the right loop is Akihabara (Electric Town) where you can find the latest in electronics, including TVs, computers, cell phones, digital cameras, just to mention a few.  Big here are Yodobashi Japan Camera, and Laox.  Before you buy any electronics be sure to check prices at home first, it might be cheaper at home, and be sure to tell the clerk that you're looking for an export model(example US) because Japanese electronics will not always work back home.
Next is Tokyo station, the main hub of the Yamanote Line and major Shinkansen station.  Tokyo station is close to the Imperial Palace, residence of the imperial family, where you can tour some of the grounds, namely the East Garden. 
Next stop is Ginza, where the most expensive shops are located.  Department stores include Mitsukoshi, Printemps,  Matsuya,  Hankyu, Wako, Matsuzakaya, and Seibu. 
Close by is Tsukiji, home to the Tsukiji Fish Market, world famous and one of the largest fish markets in the world.  Stop by to see the market and have a breakfast of sushi from one of the many sushi restaurants in the market.  You won't get fish any fresher at this Tokyo fish market unless you caught it yourself.  Near Tsukiji is the Hama Rikyu Japanese Garden, surrrounded by ponds where you can observe ducks and other birds, and tea houses.  You can even catch a ride on a ferry which will give you a nice view of the city as it cruises to Asakusa.
A nice side trip from the Shimbashi station on the Yurikamome line to Odaiba and the Telecom Center station will bring you to the Oedo Onsen Monogatari hot springs, complete with rotemburo (outdoor bath), indoor baths, a foot bath where small fish nibble at your toes, jacuzzi, massage, restaurants and souvenir shops.
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Travel Japan - Kyoto- My Favorite

For this writer, Kyoto is a "must stop" on every trip to Japan.  Kyoto is a wonderful city and has so much to do and to see, and to eat.  As many times as I  travel Japan and have been there, I am still discovering neat new places.

How To Get There:

Kyoto is accessible from Tokyo by airplane, by train, and by bus.  But recommended transportation mode is either by airplane or by train because of time and distance.  I prefer a ride on the Japan Railways Shinkansen bullet train so that you can enjoy the wonderful scenery along the way.  A trip on the JR Tokaido Shinkansen Kodama from Shinagawa station in Tokyo to Kyoto, as an example, would take about 4 hours, and by using the 7-day JR Japan Rail Pass (about $413 currently for a Green reserved car) would save you quite a sum.  Use of the rail pass over long runs really increases your savings over regular fares.  The Japan Rail Pass can be used when you leave Kyoto for Kansai Airport in Osaka on the JR Limited Express train Haruka from the Kyoto station.  LEX Haruka stops in the Kansai Inernational Airport terminal, where you can go by elevator to the 4th floor for international departures.

Where To Stay:

There are many hotels and inns to stay at in Kyoto, however I recommend staying at hotels or ryokan (inns) near Kyoto station, which makes it easy for you to access the rail system and bus system for getting around Kyoto and neighboring cities.  Some Kyoto accommodation located in and around Kyoto station include Hotel Granvia Kyoto, which is located in Kyoto station, and the New Miyako Hotel Kyoto, which is located directly across the street from the station's exit, and which I highly recommend.

Things To Do:

Must See:

To the north of the Kyoto station is Kinkakuji (Golden Temple)-built as a villa for Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu during the late 1300s, and is a beautiful 3-story pagoda covered in gold leaf with a bronze phoenix as a roof ornament.  Don't forget to bring your camera as this is a great photo opportunity.  Kinkakuji is surrounded by a lake and a wonderful Japanese moss-covered garden.  Admission is 400 Yen (300Yen Children) and hours are from 9:00AM - 5:00PM daily.  Take bus 101, 102, 204, or 205 to Kinkakuji-michi from Kyoto station.

Nearby is Roanji Temple, probably the most famous Zen garden in Kyoto, and possibly in Japan, built sometime in the 15th century.  The garden has fifteen rocks set in a rather bare garden of raked white pebbles and is very Zen (minimalist).  Sit on the temple floor in front of the garden and admire it.  Pictures can be taken.  Admission 500Yen (300Yen Children) and hours are 8:00AM - 5:00PM daily (March-November) and 8:30AM - 4:30PM daily (December-February).  Take bus 59 to Roanji-mae.

On the corner of Horikawa-dori and Nijo-dori is the Nijo Castle, built by Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu in 1603 as his Kyoto villa.  It is built almost entirely of Japanese cypress, and is known for its nightingale floors, which are special floors which creaked when walked on in the castle's corridors and which gave warning to the shogun that someone was approaching.  Surrounding the castle is a Japanese garden.  Admission 600Yen (350Yen Children) daily 8:45AM-5:00PM.  Bus 9, 51, 101 to Nijo-mae, or by subway to Nijojo-mae station.

Another must see is Nishijin Textile Center on the corner of Horikawa-dori south of Imadegawa-dori.  The museum showcases Nishijin silk weaving, and holds weaving demonstrations on its looms, and you can try making a small textile on a loom which you can take home with you (1800Yen).  What's most fascinating here is the free Kimono Fashion Shows which are held about six times daily, and with advanced reservations, you can dress up as a maiko(apprentice) or a geiko(professional entertainer-geisha)(10,000Yen), or even rent a kimono (3600Yen) 9:00AM-3:00PM (recommended) - for a few hours, and go to a Japanese garden or other spot for a photo shoot.  My wife and I took our pictures at the Heian Shrine and Shinen Garden nearby.  You can let other tourists take pictures of you in your kimonos.  Gift shops, etc. Free admission, take bus 9, 51,59, or 101 to Horikawa/Imadeagawa stop.  Subway: Imadegawa station.

Ginkakuji (Silver Temple) was built as a residence for Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa, whose intent was to coat the pagoda with silver like his grandfather did with gold for Kinkakuji, however he died prior to accomplishing this.  It is still one of the most beautiful structures in Kyoto.  I especially like the beautiful Japanese garden surrounding the temple and is another good photo opportunity.  An interesting part of the grounds is a large sand mound in the front of the garden, which I understand is supposed to be Mt. Fuji, and the raked sand surrounding it waves.  Admission 500Yen (300Yen Children) daily 8:00AM-5:00PM (Apr.-Nov.), 9:00AM-4:30PM (Dec.-Mar.).  Take bus 5, 17, 102, 203, or 204 to Ginkakuji-michi.

Heian Temple as mentioned earlier is a favorite of mine and displays the  Japan culture in the beautiful Heian era architectural style.  It has a large grounds and is a good photo taking opportunity.  You will be able to find another tourist to take your picture for you as it is usually swarming with tourists.  If you're dressed up in a kimono, they'll be taking your picture with their cameras too!

Adjacent is the Shinen Garden and is a must see for cherry trees in the spring, irises in the summer, and maple trees in the fall.  This is a wonderful place for taking photos along the walkway.  Heian Temple grounds admission is free, the Shinen Gardens is 600Yen (300Yen Children) and is open daily 8:30AM-6:00PM (8:30AM-5:00PM Nov.-Feb.).  Take bus 5, 32, 46, or 100 to Kaikan Bijutsukan-mae or subway: Higashiyama station.

Kiyomizudera (Kiyomizu Temple) is another one of my favorites.  It is known for its wonderful view of Kyoto from the main hall deck, where you can see and beautiful sunset, but is also interesting to look at the huge pillars that hold up the large deck of the Kyoto temple - 139 of them about 50 feet tall.  Don't miss the 3-story pagoda  and the Otowa Falls, which is known for its pure water (kiyomizu) and the Jinshu Shrine located behind the Kiyomizu main hall.  It has been known as the home of the god of love and matchmaking.  Admission 300Yen(200Yen Children) daily 6:00am-6:00pm.  Take bus 80, 100, 202, 206, or 207 to Gojo-zaka.

Kodaiji Temple - originally founded by the widow of Toyotomi Hideyoshi who was the Grand Regent of Japan.  In addition to the beautiful temple, the Zen garden within the grounds is a must see.  Admission 600Yen(250Yen Children) daily 9:00AM-5:00PM.  Take bus 100, or 206 to Higashiyama Yasui.

Gion is famous as a nightlife district in Kyoto, and is known as the Geisha district and is home to many tea houses.  It is located in Higashiyama-ku on Hanamikoji-dori, which is known for flower viewing.  Gion Corner has a variety of programs in traditional cultural arts such as cha no yu (tea ceremony), ikebana (flower arrangement), koto (Japanese harp), bunraku (puppets), and Kyomai (Kyoto dancing style).  Tickets 2800Yen are avialable at most hotels and held daily Mar.-Nov. at 7:40PM and 8:40PM.  Take bus 5, 17, or 205 to Shijo Kawaramachi.

Pontocho is a narrow alley along the Kamogawa river from Shijo-dori to Sanjo-dori which is full of bars, clubs, and restaurants.

Shopping:

Kyoto Handicraft Center is one of my favorite stops, and is a conglomeration of manufacturers in Kyoto demonstrating and displaying their wares.  I was able to enroll in a cloisonne making class and make a cloisonne pendant, but there are woodblock carving and printing, and doll making classes and demonstrations for these items available.  There are seven floors of shopping including Amita Corp.(pearls, damascene, cloisonne - 1st floor, kimonos handicrafts, books - 5th floor), Uchida Art Corp.(painted screens & scrolls - 1st floor, woodblock prints - 3rd floor), Kyoto Silk Co.(kimonos and souvenirs-2nd &

4th floors), Nakayama Doll Mfg.(Japanese dolls-4th floor), Kyoto Kimono Co.(souvenirs & kimonos-2nd & 4th floors), Heian Cloisonne Co.(cloisonne & pottery-5th floor), and a lunch buffet, refresments, and handicraft school.  Open daily 10:00AM-6:00PM.

Nishiki Market is another one of my favorite stops whenever in Kyoto and is known as the kitchen of Kyoto, as it contains many food stalls that the locals purchase food products from everyday.  I find it fascinating with the myriad of pickles, fresh and prepared fish and seafood, including my favorite shaved bonito flakes used in soups, prepared food including tempura, fresh vegetables and fruits, kitchen knives, clothing, Japanese restaurants, and much more.  When in Nishiki don't forget to visit the Katsukura tonkatsu restaurant there.  You will enjoy the thick slices of breaded pork on a pile of shredded cabbage with the sauces and ground goma(sesame)seeds in the suribachi bowl.  Maisen in Omotesando, Tokyo is better, but Katsukura is not far behind, in this writer's humble opinion.  Don't forget the Katsukura in Kyoto station too!

Teramachi-dori Arcade and Shin Kyogoku Arcade(which run into Nishiki Market) are still more of my favorites.  The arcades are covered, and have a myriad of different shops including clothing, especially my favorite-socks with toes, kimonos and yukatas(Nomura Tailor), drug stores, 100 Yen shop(Seria), restuarants, etc. I could spend all day here.

Kyoto Station - including The Cube, and Asty Road in Kyoto station.  Wandering in that huge station, we were lost among  clothing stores, restaurants, omiyage(gift)stores, drug stores, including my favorite Matsumoto Kiyoshi where a variety of pharmaceuticals as well as cosmetics and health items can be found.  Don't forget to visit the JR Isetan department store in the Kyoto station too, with 13 floors, you could spend all day window shopping.  Be sure to ride the extra long exterior escalator too.  You won't forget it.

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Travel Japan - Hokkaido

Travel Japan, although winters in Hokkaido can be severe, however the hearts of the people there are warm, the food is excellent, the snow is fun, and the onsens (hot springs) are relaxing.

How To Get There:
Hokkaido is accessible from Tokyo by airplane, train, car, and bus.  The recommended mode of transportation is either by airplane or by train.  I prefer a ride on an airplane - about 1 1/2 hours and you can be in Hakodate or Sapporo.  We decided on a departure from Tokyo Haneda Airport to Chitose Airport in Sapporo on Japan Air Lines, but All Nippon Airways and Air Do also fly there.  If you have time and a JR Japan Rail Pass, traveling by train could be an option, but be prepared for about a 6 1/2 hour trip on the Shinkansen Hayate to Hachinohe, then on LEX (Limited Express Train) Hakucho to Hakodate.  Sapporo is another 3 1/2 hours on LEX Hokuto.

Sapporo Japan:
We stayed at the Sapporo Park Hotel on our last trip, located near the Nakajima Park, close to Odori Park where the Sapporo Snow Festival is held in February.  Close by is the Sapporo Concert Hall (Kitara).  The Sapporo Snow Festival is a must see.  The intricate work done on the large snow structures is truly amazing.  Also amazing are the ice carvings on display nearby.  The Snow Festival now has in excess of 200 statues and over 100 ice carvings on display. 
Don't miss the underground arcades Pole Town underneath the Odori station to Susukino and Aurora Town underneath the Odori Park to the TV Tower.  Those underground arcades are a winner in the severe Japan weather and frigid winter air at street level.
Stop by the Sapporo Beer Museum where the famous Sapporo beer was brewed until 2003.  The admission is free and you can even sample the Sapporo beer at the end of the 15-minute tour in the large hall.  After that go to the Sapporo Beer Garden where you can try the Genghis Khan King Viking buffet for 3300Yen where you can grill lamb on a skillet and drink all the beer you can for 1 1/2 hours.  In the Star Hall, a Viking buffet for 5000Yen features sushi, sashimi, grilled meat, snow and king crab, and all the beer you can drink in the 1 1/2 hours.  For the buffet only it is 3670Yen (Children 1830Yen).
Don't forget a visit to Ramen Yokocho (Noodle Alley), in Susukino, where you can sample a hot steaming bowl of miso pork ramen to warm you up from the cold. 
For the kiddies, don't forget Sapporo Sato Land,  an amusement park with a variety of winter activities such as an ice slide, sledding, etc.

Otaru:
A recommended side tirp from Sapporo is Otaru, a seaport town located north of Sapporo and is about 30 minutes by bus.  Otaru is noted for glassware and Otaru Beer, and is also where the famous Maguro (Big eye tuna) is landed.

Hakodate:
Hakodate is a must see, with its beautiful evening view of Hakodate from Mt. Hakodate, and the famous Hakodate Morning Market (Hakodate Asaichi), where you can find an awesome amount of seafood products, including this writer's favorite - smoked scallops, in addition to local Hokkaido farm products.  Be sure to have a breakfast at one of the restaurants there and sample the seafood breakfast of (kani(crab), ikura(salmon roe), and hotate(scallop)donburi(seafood on steaming rice).  The Hakodate Morning Market is right across the street from the JR Hakodate train station.

Asahikawa:
In Asahikawa, stop by the Otokoyama Sake Brewery and Museum.  This is one of my favorite and best sakes and this brewery has won numerous awards over the past 340 years of its existence.  Stop by for a sake tasting and look in the gift shop, who knows, you might be carrying some bottles of sake home, like I did.

Sounkyo Onsen:
Probably the coldest part of the trip, with temperatures at -14 or -17 degrees F. - it was so cold I forgot the temperature - or was it C?  Anyway, in a narrow gorge in the Daisetsuzan National Park, the Taisetsu Hotel had a nice onsen(hot springs)to warm us up and a great seafood dinner to fill us up too.

Abashiri:
Best known for its prison, where political prisoners were held in the Meiji era.  These prisoners braved the cold and built much of the infrastruture in this area.  This area is also known for its drift ice, due to its brackish ocean water.  We boarded the Aurora ice breaker and went out to sea in search of and found the drift ice from Russia.

Shiretoko Onsen:
Probably best known for the Shiretoko National Wildlife Park, but also known for an awesome laser show in the evening called Aurora Fantasy, which imitates the Aurora Borealis, or Northern Lights.

Lake Akan:
A part of the Akan National Park, a caldera lake which freezes over in January and offers a variety of winter activities including wakasagi(smelt)fishing, snow mobile riding, skiing, and ice skating.  The smelt fishing was fun - we got to eat the smelt that we caught when we bought them to a concession to be made into tempura.  My daughter enjoyed the ice skating, and we all enjoyed the snow mobile riding.  The onsen at the Emerald Hotel warmed us up and the seafood buffet filled us up.  The fireworks display at night was nice to watch from our hotel room overlooking the lake.  It was too cold to get bundled up to see it from outside on the lake.

Noboribetsu Onsen:
Probably best known for Jigokudani(Hell Valley) due to the large sulfurous deposits in the valley, and in this writer's humble opinion, one of the best, but smelliest onsen in Hokkaido.  Our stay in the Hotel Mahoroba was nice, the rotemburo(open air bath) was nice, with cold air hitting your face while your body was in the hot bath.  The seafood buffet was great - crab, scallops, sashimi, etc. too.

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Special thanks to a dear friend, Mrs. Jo Matsu of Marukai Hawaii Tours.  If you would like info on tours, please contact her at jmatsu@marukaihawaii.com.

Travel Japan - Tokyo Restaurant Hananomai Kaisen Izakaya - A Great Hangout

Travel Japan recommends: Tokyo restaurant Hananomai is part of a large chain of kaisen (seafood) Izakaya restaurants found all over Japan.  I happened to meet a relative at the Hananomai Ginza a Tokyo restaurant for some food and drinks and was pleasantly surprised.  We were ushered to a semi-private booth and proceded to have a great time eating some very unusual dishes.  Some of the dishes included basashi (raw horse meat) for 480yen, kujira bacon (fatty part of the whale flesh) for 580Yen, namako (raw sea cucumber) for 300Yen, tako wasabi (raw octopus with grated horse radish) for 300Yen, and ika (small raw squid in soy sauce) for 320Yen.  They do serve the more traditional dishes like sashimi, sushi, salads, tempura, yakitori, fried oysters, crab, chicken katsu, yakisoba, and even steak, french fries, and cheese pizza, all at a reasonable price.  The drinks were quite reasonable too, with sake, shochu, beer, and mixed drinks.  We were able to get by with about 5000 yen apiece after quite a few drinks and lots of food.  Hananomai Ginza is located on the first floor in the Joint Bldg., 6-2-10 Ginza, Chuo-Ku. (Ph: 03-3572-2595).  Tokyo Ginza subway sta., about a 3 min. walk from exit C2.  Hours: M-F 5:00PM - 12:30AM, Sat 4:00PM - 12:30AM.

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Travel Japan - Tokyo Restaurant Yamato Izakaya - A Super Value

Looking for an inexpensive place to unwind after a long day?  Try the Tokyo restraurant and Travel Japan recommended Yamato Izakaya in Shinjuku.  Walk downstairs to the basement and you will find a very lively place for some delicious food and drinks.  Some of the more unsuual dishes I tried was dried skate fin, which was a little chewy but was quite good, and ika wasabi(raw squid with Japanese horse radish).  They serve a large variety of raw, fried, dried food items that go well with the sake, beer, and other beverages they serve.  The tab was about 4000 Yen apiece with a lot of food and drinks.


Located at Yoyogi 2-1-1 Shinjuku West.  From 11:00AM - 2:00PM and 5:00PM - 10:30PM.

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Travel Japan - Tokyo Restaurant Tsunahachi Tempura Tokyo - An Excellent Restaurant

In March of last year my wife and I went searching for a Tokyo restaurant and the famous main store of Tsunahachi Tempura in Shinjuku.  Unfortunately we could not find it.  I believe we came out of the west exit of Shinjuku station and ended up going the wrong way.  Being quite disappointed and cold, we opted for a good ramen along the way and returned to our hotel in Shinagawa.  That night, looking for a good restaurant to dine at, we went searching in the basement of the Grand Prince Hotel New Takanawa next to our hotel.  Lo and behold. we found a Tsunahachi branch restaurant there.  I must say, the tempura there was excellent, nothing like we had tasted before, with a light batter and very delicious.  We both opted for set menus and were much impressed for the roughly $25US.  The tempura was served hot, right from the kitchen to the table.  This particular restaurant apparently closed and moved to the opposite side of the Shinagawa station to the Intercity Tower Building on the 3rd Floor. Open 11:30AM - 10:00 PM.

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