Saturday, January 30, 2010

Travel Japan - Kyoto- My Favorite


For this writer, Kyoto is a "must stop" on every trip to Japan.  Kyoto is a wonderful city and has so much to do and to see, and to eat.  As many times as I  travel Japan and have been there, I am still discovering neat new places.

How To Get There:
Kyoto is accessible from Tokyo by airplane, by train, and by bus.  But recommended transportation mode is either by airplane or by train because of time and distance.  I prefer a ride on the Japan Railways Shinkansen bullet train so that you can enjoy the wonderful scenery along the way.  A trip on the JR Tokaido Shinkansen Kodama from Shinagawa station in Tokyo to Kyoto, as an example, would take about 4 hours, and by using the 7-day JR Japan Rail Pass (about $413 currently for a Green reserved car) would save you quite a sum.  Use of the rail pass over long runs really increases your savings over regular fares.  The Japan Rail Pass can be used when you leave Kyoto for Kansai Airport in Osaka on the JR Limited Express train Haruka from the Kyoto station.  LEX Haruka stops in the Kansai Inernational Airport terminal, where you can go by elevator to the 4th floor for international departures.

Where To Stay:
There are many hotels and inns to stay at in Kyoto, however I recommend staying at hotels or ryokan (inns) near Kyoto station, which makes it easy for you to access the rail system and bus system for getting around Kyoto and neighboring cities.  Some Kyoto accommodation located in and around Kyoto station include Hotel Granvia Kyoto, which is located in Kyoto station, and the New Miyako Hotel Kyoto, which is located directly across the street from the station's exit, and which I highly recommend.

Things To Do:
Must See:
To the north of the Kyoto station is Kinkakuji (Golden Temple)-built as a villa for Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu during the late 1300s, and is a beautiful 3-story pagoda covered in gold leaf with a bronze phoenix as a roof ornament.  Don't forget to bring your camera as this is a great photo opportunity.  Kinkakuji is surrounded by a lake and a wonderful Japanese moss-covered garden.  Admission is 400 Yen (300Yen Children) and hours are from 9:00AM - 5:00PM daily.  Take bus 101, 102, 204, or 205 to Kinkakuji-michi from Kyoto station.

Nearby is Roanji Temple, probably the most famous Zen garden in Kyoto, and possibly in Japan, built sometime in the 15th century.  The garden has fifteen rocks set in a rather bare garden of raked white pebbles and is very Zen (minimalist).  Sit on the temple floor in front of the garden and admire it.  Pictures can be taken.  Admission 500Yen (300Yen Children) and hours are 8:00AM - 5:00PM daily (March-November) and 8:30AM - 4:30PM daily (December-February).  Take bus 59 to Roanji-mae.

On the corner of Horikawa-dori and Nijo-dori is the Nijo Castle, built by Shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu in 1603 as his Kyoto villa.  It is built almost entirely of Japanese cypress, and is known for its nightingale floors, which are special floors which creaked when walked on in the castle's corridors and which gave warning to the shogun that someone was approaching.  Surrounding the castle is a Japanese garden.  Admission 600Yen (350Yen Children) daily 8:45AM-5:00PM.  Bus 9, 51, 101 to Nijo-mae, or by subway to Nijojo-mae station.

Another must see is Nishijin Textile Center on the corner of Horikawa-dori south of Imadegawa-dori.  The museum showcases Nishijin silk weaving, and holds weaving demonstrations on its looms, and you can try making a small textile on a loom which you can take home with you (1800Yen).  What's most fascinating here is the free Kimono Fashion Shows which are held about six times daily, and with advanced reservations, you can dress up as a maiko(apprentice) or a geiko(professional entertainer-geisha)(10,000Yen), or even rent a kimono (3600Yen) 9:00AM-3:00PM (recommended) - for a few hours, and go to a Japanese garden or other spot for a photo shoot.  My wife and I took our pictures at the Heian Shrine and Shinen Garden nearby.  You can let other tourists take pictures of you in your kimonos.  Gift shops, etc. Free admission, take bus 9, 51,59, or 101 to Horikawa/Imadeagawa stop.  Subway: Imadegawa station.

Ginkakuji (Silver Temple) was built as a residence for Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimasa, whose intent was to coat the pagoda with silver like his grandfather did with gold for Kinkakuji, however he died prior to accomplishing this.  It is still one of the most beautiful structures in Kyoto.  I especially like the beautiful Japanese garden surrounding the temple and is another good photo opportunity.  An interesting part of the grounds is a large sand mound in the front of the garden, which I understand is supposed to be Mt. Fuji, and the raked sand surrounding it waves.  Admission 500Yen (300Yen Children) daily 8:00AM-5:00PM (Apr.-Nov.), 9:00AM-4:30PM (Dec.-Mar.).  Take bus 5, 17, 102, 203, or 204 to Ginkakuji-michi.

Heian Temple as mentioned earlier is a favorite of mine and displays the  Japan culture in the beautiful Heian era architectural style.  It has a large grounds and is a good photo taking opportunity.  You will be able to find another tourist to take your picture for you as it is usually swarming with tourists.  If you're dressed up in a kimono, they'll be taking your picture with their cameras too!

Adjacent is the Shinen Garden and is a must see for cherry trees in the spring, irises in the summer, and maple trees in the fall.  This is a wonderful place for taking photos along the walkway.  Heian Temple grounds admission is free, the Shinen Gardens is 600Yen (300Yen Children) and is open daily 8:30AM-6:00PM (8:30AM-5:00PM Nov.-Feb.).  Take bus 5, 32, 46, or 100 to Kaikan Bijutsukan-mae or subway: Higashiyama station.

Kiyomizudera (Kiyomizu Temple) is another one of my favorites.  It is known for its wonderful view of Kyoto from the main hall deck, where you can see and beautiful sunset, but is also interesting to look at the huge pillars that hold up the large deck of the Kyoto temple - 139 of them about 50 feet tall.  Don't miss the 3-story pagoda  and the Otowa Falls, which is known for its pure water (kiyomizu) and the Jinshu Shrine located behind the Kiyomizu main hall.  It has been known as the home of the god of love and matchmaking.  Admission 300Yen(200Yen Children) daily 6:00am-6:00pm.  Take bus 80, 100, 202, 206, or 207 to Gojo-zaka.

Kodaiji Temple - originally founded by the widow of Toyotomi Hideyoshi who was the Grand Regent of Japan.  In addition to the beautiful temple, the Zen garden within the grounds is a must see.  Admission 600Yen(250Yen Children) daily 9:00AM-5:00PM.  Take bus 100, or 206 to Higashiyama Yasui.

Gion is famous as a nightlife district in Kyoto, and is known as the Geisha district and is home to many tea houses.  It is located in Higashiyama-ku on Hanamikoji-dori, which is known for flower viewing.  Gion Corner has a variety of programs in traditional cultural arts such as cha no yu (tea ceremony), ikebana (flower arrangement), koto (Japanese harp), bunraku (puppets), and Kyomai (Kyoto dancing style).  Tickets 2800Yen are avialable at most hotels and held daily Mar.-Nov. at 7:40PM and 8:40PM.  Take bus 5, 17, or 205 to Shijo Kawaramachi.

Pontocho is a narrow alley along the Kamogawa river from Shijo-dori to Sanjo-dori which is full of bars, clubs, and restaurants.

Shopping:
Kyoto Handicraft Center is one of my favorite stops, and is a conglomeration of manufacturers in Kyoto demonstrating and displaying their wares.  I was able to enroll in a cloisonne making class and make a cloisonne pendant, but there are woodblock carving and printing, and doll making classes and demonstrations for these items available.  There are seven floors of shopping including Amita Corp.(pearls, damascene, cloisonne - 1st floor, kimonos handicrafts, books - 5th floor), Uchida Art Corp.(painted screens & scrolls - 1st floor, woodblock prints - 3rd floor), Kyoto Silk Co.(kimonos and souvenirs-2nd &
4th floors), Nakayama Doll Mfg.(Japanese dolls-4th floor), Kyoto Kimono Co.(souvenirs & kimonos-2nd & 4th floors), Heian Cloisonne Co.(cloisonne & pottery-5th floor), and a lunch buffet, refresments, and handicraft school.  Open daily 10:00AM-6:00PM.

Nishiki Market is another one of my favorite stops whenever in Kyoto and is known as the kitchen of Kyoto, as it contains many food stalls that the locals purchase food products from everyday.  I find it fascinating with the myriad of pickles, fresh and prepared fish and seafood, including my favorite shaved bonito flakes used in soups, prepared food including tempura, fresh vegetables and fruits, kitchen knives, clothing, Japanese restaurants, and much more.  When in Nishiki don't forget to visit the Katsukura tonkatsu restaurant there.  You will enjoy the thick slices of breaded pork on a pile of shredded cabbage with the sauces and ground goma(sesame)seeds in the suribachi bowl.  Maisen in Omotesando, Tokyo is better, but Katsukura is not far behind, in this writer's humble opinion.  Don't forget the Katsukura in Kyoto station too!

Teramachi-dori Arcade and Shin Kyogoku Arcade(which run into Nishiki Market) are still more of my favorites.  The arcades are covered, and have a myriad of different shops including clothing, especially my favorite-socks with toes, kimonos and yukatas(Nomura Tailor), drug stores, 100 Yen shop(Seria), restuarants, etc. I could spend all day here.


Kyoto Station - including The Cube, and Asty Road in Kyoto station.  Wandering in that huge station, we were lost among  clothing stores, restaurants, omiyage(gift)stores, drug stores, including my favorite Matsumoto Kiyoshi where a variety of pharmaceuticals as well as cosmetics and health items can be found.  Don't forget to visit the JR Isetan department store in the Kyoto station too, with 13 floors, you could spend all day window shopping.  Be sure to ride the extra long exterior escalator too.  You won't forget it.

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